The Great American Apparel Diet

no buying for one year

• Designed and made in California
• “ecoSkin is a privately-held California apparel company offering chic, contemporary designs for the eco-conscious but fashion-savvy woman. Core to its planet-friendly mission, ecoSkin uses only environmentally sustainable luxury fabrics woven, dyed and sewn in the USA.”

My friends and I would shop at ecoSkin; pre-teens would shop at ecoSkin. My mother would shop at ecoSkin, and even my Aunt would shop at ecoSkin. That is only one of many appealing things about this earth-friendly brand made and designed in L.A. by industry veteran Sandy Skinner. Offering everything from casual shirts to evening-worthy dresses, there is something for everyone and every moment of your life. Outfits come in toned-down blues, reds and pinks as well as neutrals such as grey and beige. Their looser tunics and summer dresses caught my eye, and I know my mother would love the selection of wrap dresses; they are perfect for the office. The clothes are begging you to style them which allows fashion freedom and the ability for them to easily slip into any existing wardrobe. With Sandy closely watching every step of the process to make sure the clothes are made with environment in mind, you are sure to walk away feeling guilt-free and with a jump in your step that these flirty pieces will surely produce.

Twistflower Dress

• Prices are on par with Banana, though unlike Banana these items were not made in sweatshops in China, so overall a good deal.
• Sold in boutiques in 31 states as well as show rooms in LA and there is an online store.

http://www.ecoskincollections.com/ecoskin/index.html#

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• Made in a family-owned factory in Mexico
• “At Green Bees, for every tire that is rescued from the landfill, four shoes are produced. Keeping in line with their planet-saving credo, Garcia and Clancy use only full-grain leathers that are byproducts of the meat industry and considered waste material. Tanned without formaldehyde or heavy metals, the leather is then crafted into bohemian-inspired footwear in a family-owned factory in Leon, Mexico.”

With soles made out of recycled tires, and the rest of the shoe made out of genuine leather, you cannot help but love this classic footwear. There are a limited number of styles, but most, such as the Molly Shoe, come in a wide range of colors. Old-fashioned loafers and boots that can be seen on the farm as well as the street are among what is offered. The Emma Boot, a short boot with small detailing on the leather was my favorite. And when makers Garcia and Clancy are donating a tree for every pair sold, there is no reason not to buy one of each!

The Erma Boot (left) and The Emma Boot (right).

• Reasonable prices, since leather is never cheap, but some of the newer sandal styles come for less.
• Can purchase online or at a few stores in California and limited other states. See website for details.

http://www.shopgreenbees.com/index.htm

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• Made in US
• “Crafted solely in recycled EcoGold and conflict-free stones, and donates a percentage of sales to Women for Women International.”

These bright gold pieces speak for themselves and will jump out at you. Maker Danielle’s attention to detail is apparent in the placing of every last stone. The jewelry isn’t garish and made for show, it is delicate and intentional. I loved her Constellations Collection, which offers new versions of the classic astrology necklace. The star patterns are also available on rings and earrings. It’s surprising that it was the first collection for this accomplished designer.

The Leo Constellations ring.

• I would wait for an anniversary or Christmas to ask for these, with prices coming in at a minimum of $500.
• Buy at the online shop found on the website.

http://ellapoe.com

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The past couple weeks my computer’s internet page and I have become best friends as I have scoured the World Wide Web looking for fashionable, eco-friendly clothing and accessory brands that are made in the US or fairly traded. With the help of Eco Stiletto and other sites, I have compiled a list of incredible lines that you are sure to love; and it will only keep growing as the summer goes on! Check back every day for a new one, and let the conscious shopping begin…or begin in 85 days, at least.

• Produced in L.A.
• “Doie was born from the idea that it is possible to be stylish and comfortable while still helping to protect the environment. Each versatile piece is made from earth friendly fabrics such as bamboo jersey, organic cotton, organic wool, or 100% silk.”

Designed by a Parson’s school graduate (yes, the same one from Project Runway), you’d expect Doie to be effortlessly chic, and it does not disappoint. The classy silk shirts of the NYC and Paris Collections will always be in demand and the Los Angeles and California Collections offer summery pieces, perfect for the beach or a Saturday afternoon with the family. This is the ultimate find; run, don’t walk. Earlier collections are not necessarily to my taste, and certainly not for the fashionably-safe, but I encourage you to take a look if only to admire the designs. The website includes write ups on all the fabric used, so you know exactly what you are wearing and where it comes from.

A shirt from the NYC Collection.

• Most items have incredible sale prices, almost reminiscent of Old Navy or H&M. Get it before they are all snatched up!
• Available in 21 states and a variety of online stores, all found on the website.

http://www.doiedesigns.com/index.htm

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All right dieters, for many of you this diet ends in 85 days.  I am trying to prepare as best I can for the day when we are “set free.”  The last thing I want is a mass binge on crappy, (earth damning) clothes all made in inhumane factories in China. 

As you know I have been pondering the question—what does responsible consumerism mean and is eco-fashion code for burlap dress?  First let me reflect a bit. At the beginning of this diet I didn’t know I would become interested in “world friendly” fashion.  But through TGAAD experiment I have read, met and interviewed several fashionistas who have made a concerted effort to be both fashionable and kind to the globe.  I have come to admire that goal and would like to try that myself. 

So, with that thought, I am hoping that when I am finally “let loose” at the mall I will be much more aware of where my products come from, who made them and what they are made of.  We are talking sophisticated, hot, sexy, sharp, professional, fun clothes, not Burning Man attire.  Apparel that looks beautiful, is made well and comes from a place that you can pronounce. 

So beginning today I am going to, along with my intern Kim, share the knowledge of what eco brands exist out there.  This will be a daily update.  We will begin to educate you on who is shaping the designs and direction of eco friendly fashion.  We will introduce you to people and companies who can legitimately boast fair treatment of their employees.  And finally and I think most exciting we will open your eyes to some stellar American sourced and American made brands that you can get enthusiastic about.  So here it goes.

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I’ve always been a bit of a minimalist. I never really took the time to coordinate accessories and I would rarely wear jewelry. The one thing that this diet has really taught me is the power of a good accessory. I have one cream colored cardigan to wear and ordinarily I would have run out and purchased several new cardigans to fill the void so that I wouldn’t be forced to wear the same vanilla sweater over and over again this Spring. That, however, would be a diet no-no. So…I purchased some really adorable accessories. I purchased several cute pins hand-made by Etsy Artisans to freshen up my wardrobe. A few even pull double duty as sweater pin or hair accessory depending on how I choose to wear it. I picked up a fun, casual pin, some bold and bright flowers, and a few more low-key, natural pins to give my sweater a little flair. I’ve also taken to wearing more of my jewelry that had been lazing about in my drawer, unloved and unappreciated. I’ve started wearing my hair in different ways so that I don’t feel as if I look like the same boring old me each day. In short, I haven’t added to my wardrobe by purchasing new clothes, but I have certainly introduced some new, fun and funky looks by working with a variety of accessories in different sizes, colors and textures…and it’s been fun.

Here are links to a few of the cute new pins that I’ve purchased and made myself that I’ve added to my collection of vintage, heirloom and gifted jewelry. I’ve included a few new headbands that I’ve purchsed as well because they really help me feel new and fresh.

Recycled Headband/Necklace

Recycled Necklace/Scarf

Petal Pin for Sweater/Hair

Owl Brooch

Lightweight Natural Pin

Colorful Hairbands

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Well, it’s a fact to which our TGAAD’ers will attest:  clothing swaps are revolutionizing America’s approach to fashion.

One fabulous organization I ran across online is worth checking out:  “Clothing Swap” has been around for 15 years, but the concept has really taken off in this economy.  Their founder, Suzanne Agassi, is a self-styled “philanthrapreneur” who’s mantra is “Be good. Be green. Be GLAM!”  Her Clothing Swap events have resulted in (literally) tons of clothing and shoes donated to women in need, family and homeless shelters and hurricane relief. Plus, $116,000 has been raised for a wide range of charitable organizations, many benefitting women and children.

Below is a little excerpt from Clothing Swap’s web site, but there’s much more great info online (and on FaceBook) to check out.

Happy swapping, everyone!

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About Clothing Swap®

Clothing Swap® has spearheaded ‘green glamour’ by gathering fashionable swappers together in a fun environment where they relax, mingle, get pampered and then SWAP (exchange) clothing, shoes and accessories and thus, happily augment their wardrobes in a “Girl’s Night Out” atmosphere.

This concept flips fashion upside-down and highlights the exciting Clothing Swap phenomenon that is revolutionizing our approach to fashion.

Our events simultaneously raise awareness of and donate to charitable organizations that benefit women and families in need. We are on the lookout for genuine volunteers who wish to get involved.

Our vision is to spread our message of “Fun, Fashion and Philanthropy” throughout the world. Our site helps Swappers socialize, learn, share and get inspired to participate in the art of swapping.

How a Clothing Swap® works:

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Currently I am facing a real pants problem.  All of the pants that I wear for work (4 or 5 pairs of khaki’s) are too tight in the waistband. I suspect that this is due to two reasons: shrinking and growing.  I purchased all of these pants when I started my new job 3.5 years ago, so I believe that over time they have shrunk from repeated washing and drying coupled with the fact that I am growing. Now that I am over 30 (ssh, don’t tell anyone…), I gain and lose an amazing amount of shape on various areas of my body. My waist line expands and shrinks in a way that I didn’t even know was possible. While I train to maintain consistency in diet and exerice, there are times when it is difficult (I recently tore my mensicus and haven’t been able to exercise for nearly two months). There are times when I have to work late, or have engagements that prevent me from getting in my exercise and sleep regularly. I eat pretty healthy, so that’s not much of an issue. I also quit smoking, which has led to some modest weight gain.  All of these things equal pants that don’t fit well. Ordinarly I would just go shopping for new pants at the Goodwill and Ebay first, then ultimately at the gap to replace them, but being on the diet means that I’m going to have to get creative.  For casual clothes this is always less of a challenge because I can take liberties in my creations. For work however, this is a different story. Thankfully, I had the foresight to purchase only wide leg pants, so the hips and thights are fine, it’s really only the waist band that has become an issue over time.  In the immediate future I can’t starve myself, and I can’t just start doing aerobics on a bum knee, so I’m going to try to snip out a little rectangle on each side of my waist band and put in a small piece of wide elastic and then cover with a coordinating fabric from some older scrap garments that I have on hand (maybe even old tshirts?).  I’ll post a tutorial on my personal blog and let you know how it goes; wish me luck.  In the long-term, I forsee a trip to the gap to replace my pants once the diet is over. I think that if I can get a good 3 or 4 years out of a pair of pants and then use them to make something esle later, I feel like I’ve done my part to reduce consumption and balance comfort with consumerism.  Moving forward however, I suspect I see more skirts with stretch waist bands in my future closet.

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One of the best things about this diet is connecting with new people all over the world.  Apparently this is a topic that has hit a nerve and has been pondered for a while.  One of the people I have been in contact with is Kelly Drennan Founderof  Fashion Takes Action, www.fashiontakesaction.com.  Kelly has provided us with the facts below that are both depressing and enlightening.  Kelly is a thought leader in the fashion/sustainability arena and is a great resource for information on sustainable fashion. 

FACTS ABOUT THE FASHION INDUSTRY

 Consumption & Waste:

• In North America, the average person consumes over 80 pounds of textiles per year.
• Synthetic (man-made fibres) products will not decompose, and while woolen garments do decompose, they produce methane gas which contributes to climate change.
• 38% of Canada’s methane emissions (greenhouse gases) comes from landfill sites.
• On average, 80% of textiles thrown away still have 75% of their wear-ability left. 

• If everyone in Canada bought one reclaimed woolen garment each year, it would save an average of 300 million gallons of water and 400 tonnes of chemical dyes (imagine what this means for the U.S. which is 10 times the size of Canada). 
• Fashion is the second largest industry next to agriculture in terms of water consumption.

 Cotton:

• One pound of low impact dyed cotton uses 100 gallons of water.
• One single cotton t-shirt requires 357 gallons of water to produce.
• A single t-shirt uses about 9 ounces of cotton, an average of 17 tsp of synthetic fertilizers and nearly a teaspoon of pesticides that are classified as among the most toxic by the Environmental Protection Agency.
• Agrochemical companies make on average $2.2 billion selling cotton pesticides each year. 
• Many of the agents used to spray cotton were originally developed in WWII as nerve gases.

Leather:

•    95% of US tanneries have moved overseas to avoid environmental oversight penalties.  Tanneries are so toxic that many old tannery sites can’t be used for agriculture or built on or even sold
• Quick and permanent chrome tanning creates soft leathers, dyes easily etc; however chemicals are extremely poisonous and linger in ecosystems
• In addition to chromium, modern tanneries use synthetic chemicals such as sodium sulphide, formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, sulphuric acid, bactericides, paints, dyes, degreasers and surfactants various solvents which release volatile organic compounds (VOCs)
• Chromium (VI) is the most persistent toxin used by the leather industry. It is a known carcinogen with the following documented human health effects: skin rashes, upset stomachs and ulcers, respiratory problems, weakened immune systems, kidney and liver damage, alteration of genetic material, lung cancer and death (source: Organic Leather) – because of this most tanneries have switched to chromium (III) which is considerably less toxic but it commonly oxidizes into chromium (VI) during the tanning process and so the finished product contains toxins
• Even in the finished product, chromium (VI) causes allergic reactions such as skin rashes and ulcers, and because of its oxidized nature, it moves easily across membranes such as human skin
• According to EPA, 95% of all leather has been tanned with chromium.

Dyes:

• All synthetic dyes are made from coal tar, one of the most carcinogenic substances on the planet.
• Conventional dye process discharges massive quantities of toxic chemicals into the environment, including huge amounts of dioxins, the world’s number one carcinogen (source: Mike Betts, Director Better Thinking Ltd).
• On the local level – effects on ecosystems – wet processing effluent discharged into rivers and streams, resulting in dead zones due to effluent aquatic toxicity and biological oxygen demand; areas where chemicals are found disrupt normal reproduction of fish.
• On a global level – depletion of the stratospheric ozone layer due to emissions of chlorofluorocarbons and climate change due to CO2 and other greenhouse gases.
• Heavy metals such as chromium and cadmium, while capable of making bright and vibrant dyes, can pose a threat wherever they appear in the product life cycle – during mining, use of the dye in dye wastewater, or as result of composting or incineration.

Synthetics:

• Fibers, particularly micro-fibers, which are synthetic and petroleum derived, are perilous to our lungs. Tiny dust particles – micro-dust – coat our lungs, potentially inducing lung cancer. Some fabric dyes use cadmium, which with exposure to air, binds to small particles. It falls to the ground or water as rain or snow, and may contaminate fish, plants and animals. (source: Horst Rechelbacher)
• The main catalyst used in polyester production is antimony – a known carcinogen and toxin that affects the heart, liver, lungs and skin. By products of antimony cause bronchitis and emphysema.

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